If we believe the stereotypes, Wales has long been widely known for its rugby, choirs and sheep. (1) My partner and I decided that we would visit Patagonia in 2026 for his 50th birthday. In our research - both being half-Welsh - we were thrilled to discover that there is a whole Welsh town nestled in the Chubut Valley of Argentina. The locals speak the Welsh language, observe Welsh traditions and customs and have a great relationship with Wales in the UK. My interest was piqued - why on Earth is there a Welsh town in Patagonia and how did it get there? I recently returned from the funeral of my Aunt Audrey - my mother’s sister - in Wales. I had mostly spent time with her when I was a child and teen, visiting my Welsh family. She had a beautiful Southern Welsh accent and loved animals, nature and music. At the funeral itself, I was further reminded of Welsh cultural identity. My Aunt Audrey was interred at Glascwm (‘green valley’) in Llandrindod Wells on a natural burial site. The hills, valleys and nature in general are important to Welsh culture and the scenery of Wales is a well known tourist attraction. Sheep outnumber people 3 to 1 and the rolling landscape is stunning. The choice of setting was beautiful and serene; I could hear the birds singing and the only buildings in view were a three-sided shelter where the cardboard coffin was held and a compost toilet on one side. Music was played on the harp, the violin and later, the ukulele by my cousin and her friend as we gathered around family-decorated coffin, then again as we processed to and from the burial site where a tree would be planted on top of my aunt’s remains. Music has always been dear to the Welsh and my cousin and uncle are both professional musicians. The funeral unexpectedly became a participant observation for me, and a reminder of traditions that give Wales its character. As well as the setting, the signage and the music, the celebrant was a humanist, a reflection perhaps of the first Welsh religion of Celtic paganism. She handed out (recycled) paper with a paragraph about the Day of the Goddess on one side and - on the other - the folklore of ‘telling the bees’. (pictured) It is this recent reminder of Welsh culture and my family who live or lived there that inspired me to explore the historical creation of Patagonian Wales. Is it colonialism to create a new Wales overseas? How did Y Wladfa affect the indigenous people of Patagonia? Is it possible to keep an entire cultural legacy intact? And… are there sheep? Primary SourcesHappily, there is much material available about both the Welsh traditions in the UK and those historically and currently practiced in Y Wladfa. In the early days of the colony, the settlers themselves published several magazines: Y Brut, Ein Breiniad, Y Dravod. The titles translate as The Chronicle, Our Privilege and The Discussion. There is also a great storehouse of Welsh newspapers at the National Library of Wales covering news from the colony. Many books and articles have been published on the subject including: Memoir and Identity in Welsh Patagonia by Geraldine Lublin, Gwaldfa Patagonia 1865-1965 by R. Bryn Williams, The British World Diaspora, Culture and Identity edited By Carl Bridge & Kent Fedorowich and Hiraeth Stories from Welsh Patagonia by Steph Davies. There is also a broad film archive including British Pathé and the BBC. Though I am learning the Welsh language, I am only a beginner and the Welsh language source material will be inaccessible to me. I can use an online translator, but some things may be lost in translation. Happily, there are videos interviewing Y Wladfa’s people on the project-hiraeth website with English subtitles and other source materials are available in English as well as Welsh. HistoryThis small country in the UK has long fought to keep its Welshness alive despite quashings of the language and English interference. Y Wladfa is perhaps a strange example of historical migration, as the driving force of this move involved the nationalistic push to create another Wales outside of the UK. Rather than a colonialist conquering of another land, the Welsh themselves felt threatened by the colonial overlords of England and hoped to create an oasis of Welshness elsewhere. The settlers were not expected to live amongst Patagonian people, but to establish their own lands and bring their culture and language wholesale with them. Or perhaps it was ‘simultaneously colonized and colonizing’ as Lucy Taylor suggests. (2)
(1) James McCarthy, “Wool-d you believe Wales is losing sheep?” BBC News, https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c206y40gke5o.
(2) Lucy Taylor, “Global Perspectives on Welsh Patagonia: The Complexities of Being Both Colonizer and Colonized” Journal of Global History 13, no. 3 (2018): 446–68. https://doi.org/10.1017/S1740022818000232. (3) Author unknown. “Y Wladfa.” Rhyl Journal, 23 April 1898. https://newspapers.library.wales/view/3624968/3624970/13. (4) Ibid. (5) Image: Welsh settlers and indigenous Tehuelche people. People’s Collection Wales. https://www.peoplescollection.wales/learn/native-patagonians-and-welsh-settlers. (6) Audrey. Che Argentina Travel. Accessed 2 January 2024 https://cheargentinatravel.com/gaiman-welsh-town-patagonia/.
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Welsh Language
On our way to celebrate my Aunt’s life, we drove from England to Wales. As soon as my Dad and I crossed the border, I noticed that the road signs had Welsh place names first, followed by the English. This is a relatively recent change thanks to the Welsh Language Act of 1993 (7) and the Welsh-first regulations of 2016. (8) As in Wales, signage in the modern Y Wladfa towns uses Welsh as well as Spanish and children are taught Welsh in schools. My Mum was born and grew up in Wales on a farm without electricity or running water near Bannau Brycheiniog. In 2023, the well-known Brecon Beacons National Park rebranded solely to its Welsh name Bannau Brycheiniog. (9) Though only 28% of Welsh people speak the language (10), Welsh and Welsh-first are a declaration of national pride. Welsh is one of the oldest languages in Europe.
With such a longstanding and distinct language, it is easy to understand the interest in preserving it. The Welsh folkloric volume The Mabinogi or Mabinogion is thought to be a later 12th century compilation of oral tales and it is where much of the Arthurian legend is told. Welsh, then, cannot be uncoupled from Wales and it was important for the language and the history of the language to be a part of Y Wladfa without being lost several generations in. The preservation of the language was well-placed after a history of repression and colonialism. In 1535, King Henry VIII passed a law ensuring that English law and English language in respect of the law were to be imposed on the Welsh. (Image, 14)
This was only repealed in 1993 with the Welsh Language Act. (15) Although Welsh was not actually banned (as popularly believed) by the Blue Book in 1847, the ‘Welsh Not’ was used in many schools. Children heard speaking Welsh would be forced to wear this wooden sign and the last child wearing it at the end of the day would be beaten. (16) It is somewhat of a triumph then, that the Welsh settlers were able to hold onto their language without English influence. A perhaps unforeseen upside was that the indigenous Tehuelche also learned some Welsh in the early years of the migration, including the word ‘bara’ meaning bread which they loved to trade for meat.
...many of the Tehuelche learned some Welsh and there is record of their descendants competing in the annual Eisteddfod in Trelew. (17)
Without English interference, Welsh life in Patagonia continued in the Welsh language as evidenced by diaries, record-keeping and letters from Y Wladfa. (18) However, it was not just in Wales that the Welsh language was threatened. The Buenos Aires government put policies in place in the early nineteenth century that put Welsh culture at risk. (19) Language of course is not an unchanging thing. In Y Wladfa, Spanish has influenced the Welsh language and there is now a distinct dialect called 'Patagonian Welsh'. Language expert and grandson of two early settlers, Dr Walter Ariel Brooks describes some examples:
When you are invited to enter a Welsh speaker’s house in Patagonia, you may be greeted with ‘Pasiwch i mewn’ (‘Pass in’, which comes from the Spanish ‘Pase’) instead of the usual ‘Dewch i mewn’ (literally ‘Come in’) from Wales. Song and Dance
Mhara Starling, during her talk at Witchfest 2023, discussed how much of the culture of Wales is carried in the language. To be able to read the oldest poetry and stories of the Mabinogi/on in their original language creates a new level of understanding. I attend a beginners’ Welsh class every Tuesday night and the tutor is keen to show us videos about Welsh culture at the end as part of each class. The following video depicts a Welsh lesson at Trevelin School in Patagonia where the children dance and sing in Welsh:
(7) Gareth, Label Source, https://www.labelsource.co.uk/news/post/why-are-signs-bilingual-in-wales-a-history-of-welsh-signs.
(8) Road Safety GB, https://roadsafetygb.org.uk/news/n-a-4985/. (9) Nicola Bryan, “Brecon Beacons: Bannau Brycheiniog rebrand shows why names matter.” BBC News. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-65310952 (10) Ceryn Evans, “10 Fascinating Welsh Language Facts.” Twinkl. Accessed 10 December 2024, https://www.twinkl.co.uk/blog/10-fascinating-welsh-language-facts. (11) Jessica Brain, “The Welsh Language,” Historic UK, Accessed 30 December 2024 https://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK/HistoryofWales/Welsh-Language/. (12) Peter Boyle, Megalithic https://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=16834 (13) Evans, Twinkl. (14) UK Parliament, Parliamentary Archives. http://digitalarchive.parliament.uk/HL/PO/PU/1/1535/27H8n24. (15) Welsh Language Act 1993. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1993/38/contents. (16) Twm Owen. “Was it illegal to speak Welsh in schools - history of the Welsh Not.” South Wales Argus. https://www.southwalesargus.co.uk/news/23203614.illegal-speak-welsh-schools---history-welsh-not/. (17) Author unknown, People’s Collection Wales. (18) Brooks, Walter Ariel. “The Welsh language in Patagonia: a brief history.” British Council. https://www.britishcouncil.org/voices-magazine/welsh-language-in-patagonia-and-wales. (19) Lublin, Geraldine. Memoir and Identity in Welsh Patagonia: Voices from a Settler Community in Argentina. (1st ed. University of Wales Press, 2017), https://doi.org/10.2307/jj.14491693. (20) Brooks, The Welsh Language. (21) FelinFach, Welsh National Anthem, Accessed 2 January 2024 https://www.felinfach.com/pages/welsh-national-anthem-wales-national-anthem Eisteddfod
Eisteddfod in Welsh translates literally as eistedd, sit down and fod, be. It is a coming together and celebration of the arts. The festival website lists various performances in the upcoming 2025 edition, including the Eisteddfod choir and numerous prizes in the categories of Brass Band, Visual Arts, Cerdd Dant (22), Music, Dance, Maes D (Welsh learners), Folk (music), Science and Technology, Recitation, Literature, and Theatre. The first recorded Eisteddfod was in 1176 and was referred to originally as a ‘bardic tournament’ in the Brut y Tywysogion (Chronicle of the Princes). The word Eisteddfod came later. (24)
Video: History of the National Eisteddfod. National Library of Wales.
The Eisteddfod declined somewhat in the 15th and 16th centuries and was then revived in the 18th century in London by Iolo Morganwg who created ceremonies with the Gorsedd (secret society) of the Bards (25), inspired by Druidry, Christianity and mysticism. (26) This historic bardic competition was regarded as an important foundation of Welshness. It celebrated the Welsh language, music, poetry (in reflection of Taleisin and Aneirin as mentioned above) and the coming together of a community. The Eisteddfod was taken wholesale to Patagonia:
The culmination of literary activity was the annual chair eisteddfod, with its own Gorsedd of Bards, its chaired bard and choirs exactly as in Wales. (27)
In 1965 the Y Wladfa Eisteddfod became bilingual, with Welsh and Spanish language music and poetry. (28)
Festival of the Landing...Patagonians were finally granted the right to vote following the creation of the Chubut Province in 1955… and established Gŵyl y Glaniad (the ‘Festival of the Landing’) on 28 July as the first bank holiday in Chubut. (30)
In 2015 there was a special celebration marking the 150 year anniversary of the settlers arriving which was enjoyed by Wales and contemporary Y Wladfa settlers. Paula Dear’s 2015 BBC article sums up the various activities including; the Welsh and Tehuelche exchanging gifts, a play and a reenactment of the Mimosa ship’s arrival, a cacen ddu (black cake) competition, a Welsh hymn sung in spanish and Welsh, bi-lingual choirs, hikes (one led by Welsh Rugby star Shane Williams) and of course traditional Welsh tea. (29) Black cake is a combination of traditional Welsh cake and Christmas cake which was created by the Welsh settlers.
Video: A virtual celebration of Gŵyl y Glaniad during the pandemic in 2020.
Folklore and Mythology
The Welsh have their own mythology, the Mabinogi/on which was compiled in Middle Welsh in the 12th–13th centuries from earlier oral traditions. (31) Many Welsh stories are rooted firmly in the countryside. A quick glance at the National Trust website and you can see various legends in their landscapes. (32) The Festival of the Landing is an example of how place becomes important; celebrating Puerto Madryn as the port where the first settlers landed.
Another example can be seen in pictures and videos of Y Wladfa’s towns (such as Gaiman) where flags, signs and sculptures depict the red dragon. The red dragon is a famous symbol of Wales and the one depicted on the Welsh flag since 1959 and in battle long before. (33) The story of the dragon carries with it the message of national pride. Briefly, a story from the Mabinogion tells of the red dragon (y ddraig goch) who lives beneath the site of a castle in Eryri (Snowdonia), and fights a stronger white dragon every night yet still continues to win. The red dragon became allegorical with the Welsh, and the white dragon of invading forces. (34) The following video of Gaiman - made by two Welsh tourists in 2016 - shows the Welsh dragon, a harp and Welsh language posters in the town. They mention in the YouTube comments that the Welsh elements of the town appear to be aimed at tourism.
In my first blog, I talk about my recent experience of Welsh culture after childhood holidays spent there. What I noticed about folklore, tradition and culture were similar to what a modern-day inhabitant of Y Wladfa speaks of in a project-hiraeth video. She talks about Welsh being ‘part of [her] daily life’ in the form of singing, speaking the Welsh language, getting involved with the community and helping to organise the Eisteddfod. (35) When I asked the Trip Advisor AI what people think of the town of Gaiman, this was the response:
Gaiman, located in the Chubut Province of Argentina, is a charming town known for its Welsh heritage. Visitors often appreciate its unique cultural blend, historical sites, and the traditional Welsh tea houses. The town offers a peaceful atmosphere, making it a great place for those looking to explore a different side of Argentina. (36)
Whether or not the history, the traditional tea houses or the Welsh language have become more of a tourist attraction than a way of life, there is certainly a Welsh community in existence as shown by the work of project-hiraeth. Schools continue to teach Welsh language and tradition and the red dragon holds strong. In 1982 the connection with Y Wladfa and Wales itself was reestablished and both countries benefit from the exchange. What took a migration across the sea in 1865 is now possible in other ways: joining a Welsh language class online, visiting the London Welsh Centre or Wales itself, or watching S4C for Welsh language entertainment.
And yes... there are sheep in Patagonia.
(22) Cerdd Dant is a whole tradition in itself, broadly described as improvising over a written harp piece.
(23) Eisteddfod. Accessed 30 December 2024. https://eisteddfod.wales/. (24) The National Library of Wales. Accessed 31 December 2024. https://www.library.wales/fileadmin/docs_gwefan/new_structure/discover/education/education_services/learning_resources/Eisteddfod_Gen/English_Eisteddfod_1176.pdf. (25) Ibid. (26) Marcus Tanner, The Last of the Celts (Yale University Press, 2004) 186-218. (27) R. Bryn Williams, Gwladfa Patagonia: The Welsh Colony in Patagonia, 1865-1965 (Gwasg Prifysgol Cymru, 1965) 43. (28) Lublin, Valuable Commodity. (29) Paula Dear, “150th anniversary of Welsh emigration to Patagonia.” BBC News. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-33682688. (30) Lublin, Community in Argentina. (31) Sioned Davies. The Mabinogion. Oxford: Oxford University Press UK, 2007. 111-115. (32) “Welsh Myths and Folklore.” National Trust. Accessed 1 January 2025. https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/wales/welsh-myths-and-folklore. (33) “Celebrating Welsh Icons.” Wales.com. Accessed 2 January 2025. https://www.wales.com/about/welcome-wales/national-symbols-wales. & Davies, Mabinogion. (34) Mhara Starling, Welsh Witchcraft: A Guide to the Spirits, Lore and Magic of Wales (Llewellyn Publications, 2022) 117-128 & Davies, Mabinogion. (35) Project-Hiraeth: Life in Welsh Patagonia, Nadine. https://vimeo.com/121493034. Bibliography
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